The honest math behind aquarium stocking
The "one inch per gallon" rule is a bumper sticker. Here's the actual calculation — bioload, surface area, and species temperament — that working aquarists use.
Read articleMost aquarium calculators give you the volume of the empty box. Fishhear gives you the volume of the water — minus glass thickness, minus substrate displacement, minus the surface gap — in litres, UK gallons, and US gallons. Plus stocking guidance from an aquarist with 18 years at the glass.
Pick a shape. Choose your unit. Enter the dimensions. Optionally include glass thickness for a sharper reading. We do the rest — and we tell you the realistic water fill, not just the bigger marketing number.
Enter your tank's dimensions and we'll calculate volume in litres, UK gallons, and US gallons — plus a stocking guideline.
Tool guidance only. Always check manufacturer specifications when dosing treatments, and account for the specific contents of your aquarium. Glass thickness compensation applies to rectangular tanks only.
The Fishhear aquarium volume calculator handles the three tank shapes you'll encounter in 95% of fishkeeping setups: rectangular (the standard L × W × H glass box), cylindrical (round columns and pillar tanks), and spherical (bowls — included for completeness, though we don't recommend them for long-term fishkeeping). It accepts measurements in centimetres, millimetres, or inches, and returns capacity in litres, UK gallons, and US gallons.
Three things, all rooted in actual aquarium experience rather than pure geometry:
If you'd rather work it out by hand, the formulas behind our calculator are simple:
Worked example, in litres: a 91 × 38 × 45 cm tank is 91 × 38 × 45 = 155,610 cm³ → 155.6 litres gross. Fishhear's calculator defaults to litres because the metric formula above is the one most of the world actually measures with — set your unit toggle to cm or mm and the litres figure comes out directly, no conversion step.
To convert to gallons: multiply litres by 0.219969 for UK gallons, or by 0.264172 for US gallons — they are not the same unit, and mixing them up is the single most common aquarium-calculator mistake we see (a US gallon is about 17% smaller than a UK gallon). Our calculator outputs both automatically, labelled separately, so you never have to guess which "gallon" a spec sheet meant.
The maths is straightforward; the part most beginners miss is that the answer is always the gross volume, not the water you'll actually fill. Use the 90% rule for that.
If you've bought a tank advertised at a round number, here's what it actually holds after the 90% fill rule:
| Tank size (gross) | Real water capacity | UK gallons | US gallons | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 30 L | ~27 L | 5.9 | 7.1 | Betta, shrimp nano |
| 60 L | ~54 L | 11.9 | 14.3 | Small community starter |
| 100 L | ~90 L | 19.8 | 23.8 | Community tank |
| 180 L | ~162 L | 35.6 | 42.8 | Larger community / single cichlid |
| 240 L | ~216 L | 47.5 | 57.0 | Planted display / cichlid pair |
| 350 L | ~315 L | 69.3 | 83.2 | Large display / oscar tank |
For your specific tank, use the calculator above — these table values assume standard rectangular proportions. A tall, narrow tank or a bow-front will give different real-water figures even at the same advertised capacity.
If you shop by gallon size rather than litres, here's the same logic applied to the sizes most commonly sold in the US and UK:
| Tank size (gross) | In litres | Real water capacity | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 US gal | ~38 L | ~34 L | Nano / quarantine tank |
| 20 US gal | ~76 L | ~68 L | Small community, single betta + friends |
| 29 US gal | ~110 L | ~99 L | Standard community tank |
| 40 US gal | ~151 L | ~136 L | Larger community / juvenile cichlids |
| 55 US gal | ~208 L | ~187 L | Display tank / single large cichlid |
| 75 US gal | ~284 L | ~256 L | Large display / oscar or small goldfish group |
Four reasons, in rough order of how often they catch beginners out:
If you're new to fishkeeping, the second use is the most expensive lesson to learn the hard way. Read our buyer's checklist for first aquariums before committing to a filter that's wrong for your real water volume.
Two tanks of identical advertised volume can be very different aquariums. The shape matters for both water capacity and fish welfare:
Our calculator handles rectangular, cylinder, and sphere shapes directly — bow-fronts don't have a clean single formula because the curve radius varies by manufacturer, so here's the working aquarist's approximation instead of a wrong "exact" one:
For dosing and stocking purposes, run that adjusted gross figure through the same 90% real-fill rule used elsewhere on this page.
Every tank you can buy is advertised by its stated capacity — the empty internal box, calculated from external dimensions with a rough allowance for glass. Nobody fills a tank to the literal brim and puts nothing inside it, so that number is never what you actually work with day to day.
Real water volume is what's left after three things eat into stated capacity: substrate (5–10%, depending on depth), decor and equipment (a few more percent), and the rim gap you need for filter intakes and gas exchange (1.5–3 cm). Together, that's the basis of the 90% rule our calculator applies by default — a 200-litre stated tank holds roughly 180 litres of actual water once it's set up and running.
The gap matters most for medication dosing and filter/heater sizing (see below) — it rarely matters for simply comparing two tanks before you buy one.
Once you know your real water volume, the next question is: what do I feed the fish that live in it? Our fish feeding calculator covers 28 freshwater and marine species — bettas, tetras, guppies, goldfish, cichlids, clownfish, tangs, and more — with feeding schedules, recommended food types, and species-specific notes. Free, like everything on Fishhear.
The 90% real-fill figure is derived from typical substrate depth (2–5 cm), average decor/hardscape displacement observed across rectangular community setups, and a standard 1.5–3 cm rim gap for filter intakes — not a single cited study, but a working aquarist's average across dozens of personally measured tank fill-ups. Glass thickness compensation uses simple wall-volume geometry (perimeter × height × thickness), applied to rectangular tanks only. Unit conversions use the standard litre-to-gallon constants (0.219969 for UK, 0.264172 for US). All figures on this page are checkable with a tape measure and a calculator — that's deliberate.
Most online tank calculators give you the wrong number — the box volume, not the water volume. Here's what we do differently.
Rectangular, cylindrical, and bowl/spherical — calculated with the correct geometry for each, not approximations.
On rectangular tanks we subtract the wall volume — the difference can be a real-world 3 to 8 litres on a large aquarium.
We show both gross capacity and the 90% figure — what you'll actually fill once substrate, decor, and the rim gap are in place.
The "inch per gallon" rule with caveats. We tell you when it doesn't apply — looking at you, fancy goldfish.
Save a calculation report for your tank journal, share it with a fish-keeping forum, or print it for a build log.
Open the page, run your numbers, leave. We don't sell anything in the calculator and we never will.
I'm Marcus Whitlow. I've kept fish since I was twelve, started writing about it in my late twenties, and built this calculator because the ones I kept linking my readers to were either shallow, ad-stuffed, or quietly wrong. Fishhear is my notebook in public — calculators, stocking guides, water-chemistry articles, and the mistakes I've made so you don't have to.
For a rectangular aquarium: multiply length × width × height in centimetres, then divide by 1000 for litres. A 91 × 38 × 45 cm tank is 91 × 38 × 45 = 155,610 cm³ → 155.6 litres gross. Multiply by 0.219969 for UK gallons, by 0.264172 for US gallons.
Cylinders use π × r² × h. Spheres use (4/3) × π × r³. Our calculator handles all three and converts between cm, mm, and inches automatically.
Stated capacity is usually the gross internal volume — the box. In practice you'll fill to about 90% of that, because: substrate eats 5–10% depending on depth; rocks, wood, and equipment displace another few percent; and you'll leave a 1.5–3 cm gap below the rim for filter intakes and CO₂ off-gassing.
Use the realistic water fill figure (the big number on the right of our calculator) when dosing treatments. Use the gross figure only when comparing tanks for purchase.
The classic beginner rule is one inch of small adult fish per US gallon (≈ 2.5 cm per 4 litres). It works as a first sanity check and that's all. Real stocking depends on:
On a 30 cm starter tank, no — the difference is well under a litre. On a 200-litre rectangular tank with 12 mm glass, yes: roughly 4–6 litres of "missing" volume that the glass walls are occupying. For dosing purposes that gap is meaningful when you're working with sensitive medications.
Our calculator includes an optional glass-thickness field. We apply it to rectangular tanks only — for cylinders and bowls the geometry is too dependent on whether the base is glass or moulded plastic.
For most species, yes. A bowl has the worst surface-area-to-volume ratio of any tank shape, which limits oxygen exchange. It's also too small for filtration, too unstable in temperature and water chemistry, and too cramped for any fish that needs to swim more than a body-length in a straight line.
We include the sphere shape in our calculator because people ask for it — typically for a betta or a temporary holding bowl during a water change. If you're shopping for a long-term home, look at rectangular tanks of 40 litres or larger.
Counter-intuitively, bigger is more forgiving. A 75–100 litre rectangular tank is a sweet spot: enough water to buffer the inevitable mistakes (overfeeding, late water changes, a stuck heater), enough surface area for healthy gas exchange, and small enough to lift while empty.
Avoid anything under 30 litres for your first tank. Nano tanks are wonderful when you understand the chemistry — and unforgiving when you don't.
There's no single universal formula, because the curve radius varies by manufacturer. The working approximation: treat it as rectangular using the back-panel length, full depth, and height, then add 10–15% for the curved front.
Example: a 90 × 35 × 45 cm bow-front gives a rectangular base of 90 × 35 × 45 ÷ 1000 = 141.75 litres. Add 10–15% and you land around 156–163 litres gross — close to typical manufacturer specs for that size class. See our full bow-front walkthrough above.
Long-form essays on stocking, water chemistry, and the mistakes I've made so you don't have to.
The "one inch per gallon" rule is a bumper sticker. Here's the actual calculation — bioload, surface area, and species temperament — that working aquarists use.
Read article
The nitrogen cycle, demystified. A practical four-week protocol for fishless cycling that actually works — with specific ammonia targets and what to do when readings stall.
Read article
Why bigger is more forgiving, why long-and-shallow beats tall-and-narrow, and the seven specifications I check before buying any tank — written for absolute beginners.
Read articleFree, accurate, and built by an aquarist. No ads, no signups, no nonsense.
Open the calculator